Monday, May 26, 2014

Entry #39

Pro

Meet Nancy Drew Circa 1930



I took my inspiration from the cover illustration of Volume 1 “The Secret of the Old Clock”


This same outfit is on the cover of Nancy Drew Paper Dolls illustrated by Darlene Jones so I felt pretty confident that this might be considered a signature look for Nancy, thus her “meet” outfit.


Here is an image of a similar suit.


I usually have much more success finding the fabric I want by checking out the local thrift store and again, I was not disappointed. I have included the navy blue cloche hat in the picture. It was my color inspiration and one of 6 hats that I re-fashioned from wool felt “adult” hats this past winter. (Sorry no pictures of the process.)


First I tackled the pleated skirt because I thought it would be easiest and was the bases of the suit. It was fairly easy, but time consuming. Each pleat needed to be basted by hand. This was a recommendation in the tutorial that I found while looking for the vinegar/water formula that I needed to set the pleats. Using 1 part vinegar and 2 parts water, I dipped the pressing cloth and slightly wrung it out, covered the basted and hemmed skirt fabric, pressed and repeated on the reverse side. I allowed the fabric to dry in place.



Next I stitched down each pleat from waist to hip level, closed the back seam and attached the waist band and fastener.


Having been a pattern tester for Lee and Pearl's pattern “Molly Waves Goodby”, I knew that it would be a good pattern to adapt for my suit jacket. It was also the first time I used a trick from a pattern maker that I discovered recently; using paper toweling as pattern material. This is the pattern for the blouse.


It worked really well. I decided to make a mock up of the jacket before cutting into my fashion fabric. Getting the collar right is always the biggest challenge.


Almost finished with the jacket facing applied and the very important step of proper pressing.



Next came the blouse. Finding the vintage blouse pattern image with a neckline similar to the paper-doll illustration was a bonus.


Here is a picture of the front of the blouse where the binding is being hand sewn in place.


I also made Nancy some “period appropriate” flared panties.


Now that the sewing is done, there needs to be accessories, a clock and a magnifying glass. Here are the things I found to make a magnifying glass.


Getting the final coat of clear finish after being stained. ( I forgot to take pictures of the original wooden box that I found at Michaels and cut down to make the clock.)


Although my idea for the magnifying glass seem fine, I just couldn't get the handle and glass to stay connected. I was really blessed to find a perfectly sized glass at Hobby Lobby at the 11th hour. Whew! Nancy really, really needs a magnifying glass.

Getting dressed:




Ready to solve a mystery…….


Shoes are borrowed from Kit. Nancy has some shoes coming, but they didn't arrive on time for the photo shoot.  "Nancy" is a modified TLC #21.  
She needs blue eyes and will be getting them soon.



__________________


Voting for the 2014 Spring FDC 
Starts On May 28th, 2014.

Voting Ends June 11th, 2014.

Please vote for this entry by commenting below or 
emailing us at nora.demington@gmail.com.

Vote for Entry #39, by writing -- "I vote for Entry #39."

We recommend voting for one newbie entry, 
one intermediate, and one pro, at least.

Thank you!

Entry #38

Pro


Meet MacKenzie


Meet MacKenzie, a designer for Vintage Threads 18” Dress Emporium (vintagethreads.biz) or at mackenziedesigns.biz. MacKenzie is a young woman full of passion for creating historical fashion. She designs and makes historical clothing for reenactments.  Follow her as she shows how she created her latest costume for a Medieval Reenactment.


This medieval costume is made of three pieces: a dress, a jacket, and a belt. This medieval dress of simple lines and flowy grace is embellished with hand embroidery, beads, sequins, and buttons.

The dress, of dull turquoise satin, is princess seamed with a large collar. The front panel is embroidered with wavy lines and swirls and is embellished with beads making it sparkle. The sleeves are long and fitted by the use of a dart with small buttons going from elbow to wrist. The back is closed using two invisible snaps. The shoulder of the dress, under the collar, has the ball side of a snap stitched onto it to attach the jacket. 

The jacket, of shiny gold satin, has similar lines to the dress. The sides have a long curvy line of embroidery running down from the shoulder to hem, with embellishments of gold/orange sequins. The sleeves of the jacket are a fully lined medieval style with a curvy line running down the top. The shoulder of the jacket has the socket side of a snap stitched into the underside, matching up with the ball side attached to the dress for extra support.


The belt is a simple narrow band of the dull turquoise that has an embroidered curvy line running length wise on it. The belt is fastened with a single snap.  

My doll is a Madame Alexander.


Design and Material





In Progress

Pattern  Pieces



Dress:



 Front Panel – (optional) Embroider design onto the material before cutting out – Reinforce the V on the neckline of the front panel and clip the point.



Attach bodice front and bodice back at the shoulders

Stitch dress front panel and sides together, matching edges from the bottom.




Stitch the dart into the sleeve and hem. Add the buttons to edge of the dart.



Sew ease stitch, pin and pull to fit. Insert sleeve to the bodice. Stitch. 



Stitch the two collar pieces right sides together along the outside seam. Clip edges, reverse and press.

Place collar on the neckline of the dress, wrong side of collar to the right side of the neckline. Fold over – be sure the all edges are secure – pin and top stitch around the neckline.


Stitch the inner arm and skirt side seam.


  Stitch the back seam to the large dot and finish back closure.
Stitch a ball side of a snap on the shoulder and under the collar.
  Hem the dress.

Jacket:



   (Optional) embroider before cutting out.
    Stitch jacket front and back together at the shoulder seams.
    Stitch facings at shoulder seams.
    Stitch the facing and the jacket front and back together along outer edge on jacket front and on the neckline. Right sides together. Clip curves, turn and press.
  Stitch the sleeve and the sleeve lining together at the lower edge and side to the notch (on side trim seam tight against the stitching and trim the corner). Turn and press. Top stitch the lower edge to make it lie flat.
   Sew in gathering between notches, pin and pull to fit. Stitch.
  Stitch the inner sleeve and the jacket side seams together.


    Stitch socket side of a snap on the underneath part of jacket front, matching the ball side of snap on the dress
 Hem the jacket.


Belt:

(Optional) embroider before cutting out.
 Fold belt piece lengthwise, right sides together.
Stitch around edge, leaving an opening for turning right side out.


Hand stitch opening, press.
Stitch a snap in place for the fastener


The Finale








__________________


Voting for the 2014 Spring FDC 
Starts On May 28th, 2014.

Voting Ends June 11th, 2014.

Please vote for this entry by commenting below or 
emailing us at nora.demington@gmail.com.

Vote for Entry #38, by writing -- "I vote for Entry #38."

We recommend voting for one newbie entry, 
one intermediate, and one pro, at least.

Thank you!